How to make a detachable shoulder strap for your bag

By now you have surely seen the new guitar type purse straps, right? They weren’t really on my radar until early this year when I read an article in the NY Times. Since then, I haven’t been able to get this detachable strap out of my mind. Suddenly it seemed as if each bag I own needed to have its own wardrobe. ( And now, they do. ) I began to imagine the countless options and reinterpretations.

I love the fun of dressing up a bag with a different strap, and watching the transformation. These shoulder straps allows you to instantly add a personal touch to your bag. The first bag that I tried to pair it with was a crossbody style. The new contrasting strap made it so much more fun and interesting. Then I tried it with a belt bag- now that “belt” bag has three different options. It can be worn on the belt, with a crossbody strap and now, it has a new leather top handle. Same bag, three carrying options. Friends, isn’t that reason enough to pull out your sewing machine?

Today I am going to share with you at a shoulder strap tutorial so that you too can make a detachable shoulder strap that speaks to you, fits you and stands apart from the rest of your bag.

The Ultimate Hook-up: Make a detachable shoulder strap for your bag

HOW TO SEW A DETACHABLE PURSE STRAP



MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES

Sewing Machine with a walking foot

Leather scraps, (8 inch square should be enough)

Two 3/8” x 1 1/2” Swivel Snap Hook for the rounded cap; Two 1 1/2” x 1 3/4” for the squared off version.

1 1/4 Yards of Cotton Webbing Mine is 38mm (roughly 1.5”) wide and 44” long

Mid-weight polyester thread to match leather

Scissors or Rotary cutter

Rubber Cement

Chalk or water soluble fabric marking pen

Leather End Cap Pattern

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SIZE

Finished dimensions are approximately: 2”x 47”

NOTES

See previous blog posts on sewing with leather, determining the best strap length and using an adjustable slider .

The leather used in this tutorial is from Leather, Suede, Skins, Inc. in NYC

For best results when sewing with leather, the stitch length should be set to about 7-10 stitches per inch depending on the thickness of the leather. Stitches that are too short make too many holes in the leather which decreases stability.

You can adjust the length of the stitch by testing on a scrap of leather. Does the leather feed evenly? Are there any skipped stitches? How is the tension? Are both the top and bottom threads flat and even?

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning your bag.

THE PATTERN

If you haven’t used a PDF Pattern before, here is a quick tutorial on printing and assembly: PDF Pattern

Assembly Tutorial.

For more information on working with patterns, see pages 14-18 in my book, Sew Bags: The Practical

Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects C&T Publishing, 2019

PREPARE

There are two end cap styles to choose from. Please be sure that you select the appropriate sized hardware and webbing to fit. For this tutorial, I am using the more rounded off shape to cap my strap.

Trace the End Cap pattern onto the back side of the leather piece. Repeat for the second piece.

CUT

Carefully cut around the traced line.

Measure and cut the webbing to your desired length. Here is a recent article that may help guide you- or you can just measure a strap that you already own and that fits comfortably.

HARDWARE

Slide the leather piece into the bottom ring of the snap hook. I find it is easier to fold the leather in half, lengthwise (like a hotdog) and thread it through the ring. Once it is centered, unfold and flatten.

In a well- ventilated area, apply a generous glop of rubber cement to the center of the inside of the leather. Let it sit a moment to get tacky. Place the end of the webbed strap centered on the leather- making sure that the webbing is completely inside the leather. Press to help the rubber cement to adhere.

Add another bit of rubber cement to the top of the strap and press the leather to seal. Allow to dry for a few minutes.

Repeat for the opposite side of the strap end.

MARK

Take a piece of chalk or a water soluble pen and mark the stitching line on the outside of the leather.

SEW

Edgestitch around the end cap. You will be sewing a box that is about one and a half inches square. If you would prefer, feel free to round out your stitching instead (like I did) by just sewing 1/4” from the edge of the leather. It is easier to sew a box shape and get it right the first time. Whichever shape you choose, just try to sew slowly. You can even “walk” your machine if you need to.

TRIM THREADS

Instead of back stitching, I generally recommend leaving long tails and hand knotting the ends, as backstitching can cut the leather. To hide the tails, tie in a double knot as close to the stitch as possible. Thread both ends of the thread onto a hand sewing needle. Insert the needle into the back of the strap of the underside of the seam. Pull through. Tie once again and snip.

Pictures of this method and more details are available here.

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I added a rivet to this strap to both dress it up and to provide some additional reinforcement.

My next strap is all laid out and ready to go!

This accessory strap can be used with any bag that has a removable strap. Simply unhook the original, and swap it out for the new and improved.

With this fully customized option, you can breathe new life into old bags. Whether you wear it messenger or standard shoulder style, it is sure to give each outfit some unique style appeal. How will you wear yours? Please share using the hashtags #sewbags #sewbagsthebook #littlestitchstudio

For more bag patterns and sewing techniques, be sure to check out my new book! Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects

XOXO, Hilarie

Tips and Tricks for Sewing with leather

There is just nothing like sewing or crafting with beautiful materials. Chief among them for me is leather.

One of the reasons that I was late to release a pattern that requires leather is that for many people, it is tricky to acquire. It is not like you can stop by your local fabric shop and pick up a yard or two. Additionally, while leather is not difficult to sew, you do have to have a few extras available to make it turn out looking fantastic. When I wrote my book, one thing that I really wanted to stress was to not feel the urge to go out and purchase everything that you think you “might” need. As it never really ends- I promise! 45 years in and each time I learn a new technique or take interest in some new esoteric path, the cash flow woes begin! Which brings me back to the point, “Do as I say, not as I do” :)

Life is funny sometimes! Through complete serendipity, and the power of Instagram, I have made a new friend, Faina, who happens to own a leather shop! Leather, Suede, Skins, Inc. in NYC. She so generously shared some of her gorgeous leather with me to make the Poppy Convertible Tote and tutorial. But more than that, you now have a place to shop for leather and an expert to consult! Our hope is that together, we can show you how easy and fun it is to sew with leather.

There are a few supplies that you will need to get started. While some are truly necessary to achieve the correct finished look and make the process so much more enjoyable! There are a few others that are more in the “nice to have” category. I’ll share both with you.

MY FAVORITE LEATHER SEWING TOOLS

Walking Foot, or Even-Feed Foot Don’t be intimidated- the walking foot is your friend! This genius device will evenly feed multiple layers of fabric or leather through your machine. No shifting, dragging or puckering.

Silk or Polyester Thread- this is my favorite Additonally, topstitching thread or denim thread works too. Be sure that it is medium weight and made of silk or polyester. Cotton thread will fray and deteriorate over time due to the chemical reaction to the tannins in the leather.

Double Sided Tape Double-sided leather tape comes can hold layers of leather together for stitching and can also be used to hold seams flat. Please remember to test on scrap leather before trying on your project.

Wonder Clips (Medium sized binder clips work too.) Unlike fabric, pinning leather will leave holes. Instead try using clips.

Microtex or leather Sewing Machine Needles These needles have a special shape and point which is designed to pierce leather with little resistance.

Mallet A rubber or bakelite mallet is used to lightly tap seams in order to flatten them.

Rubber Cement Rubber cement works well for gluing seams flat.

Straight Awl My go-to tool to punch holes or enlarge existing holes in canvas and leather.

Rotary Cutter- This smaller one is great for detail work and the larger size can go through leather so easily.
Leather Hole Punch Punch neat and clean holes in leather and canvas. An essential for preparing straps for hardware.

While each of these tools is really helpful, the ones that you truly “need” to begin sewing with leather are the correct needle, thread, walking foot and clips or tape. The rest can be acquired over time. You do not have to have every notion, attachment and gadget. Instead, I encourage you to start small and build your supply stash as you build your skills.

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Download your free PDF sewing pattern to make the Poppy Convertible Tote

When learning to sew- or to sew with a new techniques, please take your time and concentrate on accuracy. Unlike sewing with regular fabric, sewing with leather, the threads can't just be pulled out without leaving holes from the previous stitching. By slowing down and concentrating on learning a new skill, you're much more likely to achieve a result you're really proud of.

I hope these tips help you feel more confident about sewing with leather. If you have any questions please feel free to get in touch. And if you’re looking for a fun project to practice your leather sewing skills, the Poppy Convertible Tote is a great first project. It only requires sewing straight lines- no curves, and the pattern gives you detailed, fully photographed instructions to guide you step by step as you make your first leather bag.

XOXO, Hilarie

The Poppy Convertible Tote PDF Pattern and Tutorial

Introducing Poppy!

Welcome to my newest pattern, The Poppy Convertible Tote.  Poppy is at once classic and modern.  A beautiful leather tote that easily cinches to a classic shoulder bag. Featuring comfortable cotton webbing straps, an interior pocket plus hardware that functions as both clasp and optional cross-body strap holder. 

LEARN TO SEW A LEATHER BAG

Poppy is the perfect bag for learning to sew with leather.  It has few seams and best of all- it doesn’t require fitting! Speaking of leather, it is time that you start shopping so that you can get started on your bag. You will need about 7.5 square feet (0.7 m2) of cow hide with an approximate weight of 2-3 ounces for this bag. Cow hide is much stiffer than some other skins such as lamb or goat. That stiffness is needed to hold the shape. The leather for my bags is from Leather Suede Skins, Inc. in NYC. Call and ask for Faina. She will help you select the ideal leather for your bag. Alternately, you can find leather online or a local specialty store.

FREE PDF PATTERN DOWNLOAD AND TUTORIAL

The PDF Version of the Poppy Convertible Tote is available now for instant downloading.  It is formatted for printing at home on standard 8.5 x 11” or A5 paper.  The PDF is 31 pages, 9 of which include the pattern. The rest is all instruction, tips and techniques. This pattern was designed to be made along with my book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects.

Poppy, my sweet kitty with her bag.

This pattern is a long time coming, and I am so happy to finally be launching it. You can look forward to a sew along in the coming weeks.

I hope that you enjoy this pattern and learn a new skill or two. Please share your pictures- I can’t wait to see your finished bag.

XOXO, Hilarie

#poppyconvertibletote #sewbags

DIY Leather Hair Tie Tutorial

Sewing With Leather, A Primer Series and Leather Hair Tie Tutorial

Have you ever tried sewing with leather? It isn’t nearly as tricky as it sounds. Later this month I will be releasing a free pattern for making a leather bag. Before that, I thought it might be fun to give you a small- and instantly gratifying project to get your mind thinking about all things leather.

Leather comes in many varieties, weights, textures and colors. It can be a bit intimidating to purchase and to cut into the first time. However, once you understand it- there is no turning back! Unlike fabric that is comes on a bolt, leather is sold in hides and pieces- and by weight. The weight though doesn’t refer to it’s actual weight. Instead it is a gauge of the leather’s thickness. Generally, each ounce of leather equals 1/64th of an inch or 0.4mm thickness.

Since leather comes from an animal, there will be some variation. As such, leather is generally listed for sale in a range of weight. For example 2-3 oz, 3-4 oz. Most home sewing machines will easily stitch leather up to about 3-3.5 ounces.

For the most part, the leather that I use is purchased from Abe’s Leather in Brooklyn, eBay, Etsy and Mood Fabrics. There is a new to me resource that I am excited to share, Leather Suede Skins, in NYC. Also- I tend to love to take apart old clothes and bags too. So keep the thrift store and your closet in mind as an alternative.

Price is based on quality, type of skin, country of origin, size and finish. It doesn’t have to be too expensive so shop around.

Once you have selected your leather, lay it out on a flat surface and examine the hide for imperfections, holes and variations in thickness. Leather does have a grain, but for bags and small accessories, it really isn’t necessary to place patterns along the grain line. Instead, arrange the pattern pieces to fit and to maximize the available leather.

When you have determined the optimal layout, you will want to place a pattern weight (or some close object that will function as a pattern weight and allow you to trace the pattern piece onto the leather. In working with leather, you do not want to use pins as they will leave permanent holes and marks.

Pattern weights holding pattern piece in place.

Non-standard pattern weights work well too!

Tracing a pattern on leather doesn’t really require anything special- a ruler and some kind of pencil. I tend to use a pen, pencil, chalk, marker or even a tracing wheel. It really depends on the color of the leather, how smooth or rough the hide is, and what is on my table at the time.

Leather is easily cut with sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. I generally use a rotary cutter for most things- but for this hair tie project, scissors work just fine.

Here are some of my favorite tools that I use for cutting leather:

Olfa Rotary Cutter I like both the 45 and the 28MM sizes.

Self-Healing Cutting Mat You will want a large mat to comfortably lay out your pieces to cut

Omnigrid Quilting Rulers These come in a variety of useful sizes. Because of their relative thickness, I prefer these rulers over others for guiding my rotary cutter. Fingers can get cut way too easily without the ruler.

In my next post I will share some tips on getting you started sewing with leather on the machine. Needles, feet, thread, interfacing and adhesives.

LEATHER HAIR TIE TUTORIAL

MATERIALS

Thin leather (vegan leather, Felt and Kraft-tex work great too!)

Hair Tie Pattern

Scissors (or rotary cutter)

Pen, pencil or chalk

Hair tie

SIZE

Finished size for the bow is approximately 4 3/4” x 1.5”

Finished size for the tie is approximately 3”x 1/2”

PATTERN

TRACE

Trace the pattern onto the back side of the leather piece.

CUT

Cut along the traced line.

TIE

Place the leather tie right side facing down and slip into the elastic hair band.

Tie the leather into a knot around the elastic band. The object is to end up with the right side (pretty side) of the leather on the outside of each side of the bow and the center knot.

Before pulling the knot tight, twist the sides around a bit to make sure you are happy with the way the leather faces.

All done!

For this version, tie in the same manner as above making sure that the pretty side of the leather is facing up.

The pattern for the hair tie is just a rectangle. To give you a bit of wiggle room to make it symmetrical, I didn’t add the angled ends. Once your are satisfied with the way your leather is knotted, just cut the ends at an angle.

Aren’t they pretty? I would love to see what you make. Please tag me @littlestichstudio when you show off your fancy work.

How to make an adjustable purse strap

An over-the-shoulder bag doesn’t always work so great when you have kids or say, you need your hands to hold something else- or nothing. Years ago, the cross-body bag made a strong comeback as has the more recent resurgence of the “belt bag” (formally known as the fanny pack). What makes these bags so great is the ability to adjust the length of the strap. Whether you want to adjust it to fit your outing, outfit or just personal strap-length preference, with a quick slide of the hardware, you are ready to turn any silhouette into a cross-body style and reinvigorate your bag-carrying game.

Here’s a quick tutorial to show you how to make an adjustable purse strap!

How to make an adjustable purse strap

Commitment-free straps, for when you can't decide.

The double-fold strap and Savannah Cross-body bag used in this tutorial are projects from my book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More.

Supplies needed:

Strapping plus two 3” long tabs of strapping (to connect a D ring to each side of the bag) I’ll explain:) You can always use leather or cotton webbing straps in the same length and width as an alternative to fabric straps.

2 D-Rings *

1 Strap slider adjuster

The strap, tabs, D-rings and Slider all need to be the same width. In this tutorial, mine are 1/2”.

*If you are unable to find a D-ring the same size and color as your slider, you can always make some after-market improvements. For this tutorial, I used a pair of pliers to remove the center slide and made a set of D-ish (square, actually!) rings. Let’s call them a D+ pair.

Adjustable Straps

Take one of the 3” tabs and slide over the D-ring, folding in half so that the raw edges align. Pin and stitch in place about 3/4- 1” below the hardware. Repeat for the second tab.

Place the slide adjuster right side down, with the strap placed with the outer side facing down, too. Thread the long piece of strap (the tail) through the slide adjuster’s center bar.

Set your sewing machine to a narrow stitch, (around the 2.0 range). Stitch across the raw edge. Before you do this, grab both your top and bobbin thread and wrap around your finger while sewing to guide your machine and ensure that it sews smoothly along the strap’s end and you won’t get a “birds nest”.

Do you see how the edge of the strap is just slightly narrower than the rest of the strap? Depending on your choice of fabric, you could use an iron to spot shrink it, but that is another lesson. By shrinking the end just a bit, it will allow the tab to fold in and the edges to be concealed within the fold.

Fold the end of the strap under about 1” and tuck the raw edge inside that fold about 1/2” and pin.

Stitch in place. Make sure to reinforce with a back stitch to secure.

For a wider strap, I would likely stitch the width of the strap in a rectangular box but for a 1/2” width, one line of stitching should do.

The raw edges are completely concealed. No visible threads!

Threading the Slide Bar

This part is a little bit tricky the first time. Here is a picture and a drawing to help you visualize the steps. First, locate the slider with the center bar. We are going to take the “tail” of the strap and thread it through D-ring (number 1), over the center slide (number 2) and through the opposite D-ring (number 3).

Tabs one and three will be sewn into the side seams of the bag.

This picture is to illustrate the strap in relation to the bag.

In any bag making venture, (generally!) this strap will be added way before the bag is complete. This picture is to give you the general idea (and for you to go get my book:) for a more complete lesson.

Feed the “tail” through the other D-ring tab on the opposite side of the bag. Before you sew - make sure that the strap is facing the correct way and has not twisted in the threading process. Fold and stitch the raw edge of the “tail” to the second side tab.

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An adjustable strap can be used with any bag that has a removable strap. Imagine for a moment how this might change your bag carrying experience. One bag, thoughtfully designed with the right hardware and removable straps- could at once be a handbag, crossbody bag, clutch, tote or shoulder bag with the quick switch of a strap. Think about it.

Consider adding an additional “guitar style” strap to elevate your everyday bag.

Straps are such a fun way to introduce an individual approach to a handbag, distinguishing it as its own distinctive piece. I am so excited to see the bags that you are going to make. Please use the hashtag #sewbags on social media- and be sure to tag me @littlestitchstudio.

Are there any specific techniques that you would like to learn? In my next post, I am going to share my favorite bag making fabrics.

XO, Hilarie

Sew Bags; The Blog Tour Re-cap

I teach sewing and design because I believe that everyone possesses some innate creative ability and once you tap into that and discover your passion, it can build confidence that flows into all aspects of life.

These past few weeks, I have had to take a deep dive into my own confidence reserve.

As the publication of my book drew near, I knew that it was time to begin to organize a promotional book blog tour. In order for the book to sell, people have to know about it - right? By May, sheer panic set in. Besides the fact that I am terribly introverted and likely would never own a phone, let alone leave the house given the chance, I had to ask complete strangers to read my book and to (PLEASE!) make something from it and share it with the world.

At first, I thought, who am I going to ask? Fabric companies? maybe. Celebrities? nah. Some sewing blogging superstars with comanding audiences? (well…..) Then I began to scroll through my Instagram feed and consider who’s posts I always look forward to reading. Who seems approachable enough to ask? Who would even recognize my name if I did message them? Finally- who has a similar philophsy to teaching and style and would “get” my message. Well- that certainly narrowed down the possibilities considerably. Since I teach sewing, who better to ask then other fashion-forward sewing teachers too.

As it turns out, sewing teachers might just be among the nicest and most approachable people ever! Each of the following women are incredibly busy with a business, projects and families of their own. I owe them a huge thank you for the kindness that they have shown me by generously sharing their time and talents. I hope that each of you will read their posts and draw inspiration from their interpretation of my bag patterns.

Jesy, Needle, Ink and Thread

In a conversation with a friend who is also a sewing teacher, she asked me if I know Jesy. I answered that I didn’t. She told me to check out her work and mentioned that she is exceptionally talented and super nice! As it turns out, besides teaching sewing, Jesy was a former co-owner of Sew Dayton, has contributed a project to a new book as well as sewing custom projects and alterations. If she can pull that off, maybe a small bag wouldn’t be too much to ask:) Jesy agreed and was in!

Jesy made the Bunny Backpack from Sew Bags.

Adorable, right? I love her smile.

Jesy’s Tooth Fairy Pillow project is featured in this book, 50 Little Gifts.

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Julia, Old Spool Sewing

Several months ago while looking through Instagram, a friendly smiling face appeared in my feed. I clicked on her post and woah! Another fun sewing studio for kids. Her studio looked bright and filled with lots of smiling kids. Then I saw this cute, cute red wrap top. Well, I do love a wrap top so I commented. She wrote back and then BAMN! #insta-friends:) As it turns out, Julia went to Parson’s and has a degree in Fashion Design which she now uses in her efforts to inspire and cultivate creative talent. So…. I asked Julia too- And she said yes!

Julia made the Abigail Boxed- Bottom tote - complete with hand dyed shibori!

The red wrap-top

Julia was a contestant on Slice TV’s Stitched.

Katie of Katie Kortman

Last summer I saw on Facebook that a new sewing and art studio for kids had opened in a neighboring city. Intrigued, I clicked to find out more. It turns out, Katie had moved in like the week before. I guess as a military mom of 4, she was well practiced in the art of moving and managing kids and projects. I reached out to introduce myself and see if she was taking on new students as I was maxed out at the time and know that families would be thrilled to hear that there was another place to send their kids. This was before Katie blew up Instgram with her hashtag game and spinning color wheel of fun. So- is it safe to say I “knew” Katie before she was famous?? Somehow she fit my project in with everything else she is juggling. Hello- new Spoonflower collection!!

Katie’s handprinted suede Savannah Cross-body bag.

Katie’s fabric collection with Spoonflower.

More fabric and color inspiration!

Tree, Stitchless TV

A few years ago during Makers for Fashion Revolution, #makersforfashrev, I discovered both Tree of Stitchless TV and Kate of Sewing with Kate. Tree had posted a picture of a bathing suit that she had made with a custom printed fabric. I commented that years ago, I worked with a swimwear designer and had made many, many suits over the years. She immediately wrote back and we have followed each other’s feed since. While we have never met in person, I do feel a strong creative connection with Tree. She is absolutely fearless in her approach to both teaching and sewing. And, as many of you know, I loathe TV and YouTube but make a special point of sharing her videos and tutorials with my students. They are that good!

One thing that Tree always emphasizes is her belief that with a bit of experience, anyone can learn to design a bag or garment and experience the absolute thrill of using and wearing something that you made yourself.

When you see something like this, it is an immediate signifier that the person both knows what they are doing and is fearless in her approach.

How beautiful is this coat that the wearer made in one of Tree’s workshops?

Ribbon embroidery on mohair. Seriously.

Kate, Sewing with Kate

Kate had me at first glance of her Sashiko. Anyone who spends that much time sewing by hand is someone who really understands the importance of attention to detail. Hand sewing allows a much finer degree of control over the fabric and fit, compared with using a machine. Kate understands that. Also- perhaps since she is a mom of a bunch of kids, hand sewing is portable and thus, gets done and is a great way to keep your hands busy while endless waiting for kid sports and activities.

After gushing over her sashiko samplers and bags (she has an etsy shop with patterns too! ) I then saw her clothes. That was it- I was a fan for life. Come on now, how freaking fantastic are these next two dresses? The embellishment and that leather. So I had to ask….would you make one of my bags?

Kate made the Rachel Drawstring Pouch- and hand stitched the sashiko pattern before sewing the bag.

This proves that there is nothing better than a well- fitting garment with one stand out feature.

Leather shoulder inset of my dreams.

I just love how each of these ladies took the original pattern and spun it to create something that is unique to their style. That is my ultimate goal as a pattern maker, sewing teacher and now author. To impart the lesson that you don’t have to just follow the pattern; treat the suggestions in your pattern as starting points and use your own imagination and skills to make the bag that suits you.

Happy Sewing!

XOXO, Hilarie

Please remember to tag me on social media with your makes using the hashtag #sewbags. I can’t wait to see what you share.

Understanding Purse Straps and Handles

I am so thrilled that my blog tour week is finally here! My new book: Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects is written as a guide, complete with patterns and step by step instructions ,to help you create the bag of your dreams. This week, a few gracious sewing friends from across the globe are generously giving us their time and sharing their thoughts and projects from my book. I just can’t wait to see what they have made.

I hope that you follow along to check out their take on the projects and enter to win a copy of Sew Bags at each stop! You can enter the C&T giveaway HERE.

Tuesday, 7/1: C&T Publishing

Wednesday, 7/2: Hilarie Wakefield Dayton of Little Stitch Studio Norfolk 

Thursday, 7/3: Katie Kortman

Julia of Old Spool Sewing

Friday, 7/4: Jessy of Needle, Ink and Thread

StitchlessTV (YouTube video) 

Monday, 7/8: Sewing with Kate

This week on Instagram, look for TopStitch Atlantas Instagram story .

After a lovely introduction from my friends at C&T yesterday, I thought that I would follow up today by sharing my thoughts on creating a bag that suits you as the wearer. A purse is an opportunity to show the world your personal style and the silhouette that best represents you. Which means: any old bag just won’t do. Like it or not, your purse says a lot about you. Are you a mom that has to carry everything for everyone? Are you a just the basics and cut it to the essentials? Are you out for friends with the night and carrying a fun clutch? Besides toting the essentials, a purse is also an accessory-a blank canvases that can project your mood, your favorite trend, or your aesthetic of the moment.

Since everyone is different, there are also adjustments you can make to a sewing pattern that will customize the bag perfectly to your body and individual needs to ensure that your bag is useful as well as beautiful. I’m all about customization and straps and handles are a great way to both customize and accessorize.

STRAPS AND HANDLES

Bag straps and handles are so much more than a mere function of convenience. They are exciting design features on their own. Not to mention, major considerations in determining the usefulness of any given bag.

We all have fallen in love with a bag that had handles that just weren’t right: Too thin and they cut into your arm or shoulder or too wide and they slide off. It is important to consider how you will carry your bag as well as what it can fit. Do you wear it on your shoulder? Over a coat? On the crook of your arm? In your hand? Keep in mind that smaller bags use thinner straps and larger bags use wider straps.

The most challenging part of sewing a bag is that you can't try it on until after it’s finished. And, if it doesn't fit right, you can't just exchange it for another size. Finding the right fit before you start sewing can solve this problem. I suggest that before you make any bag, stop and consider the strap length before cutting into your fabric. This is such an easy way to begin to customize the pattern and make the finished bag comfortable and fit you.

The Heidi Side Panel tote from my book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches and More, in two ways. The first, with leather straps set with rivets and extra handy D-ring detail, the second with cotton webbing strap detail and leather front patch pocket.

Strap Length and Drop

There are a couple of ways to determine the overall size and fit of a bag before you begin. One way is to measure a bag that you already own and know it fits just the way you like. (This is also a great trick when making someone else a bag as a surprise. You can simply borrow their bag for minute and take a quick measurement.) The second way is to make a paper mock-up of your bag and using a ribbon and clips or pins, play with the straps length and width until you find the one that is the most flattering and comfortable. Then measure that ribbon from end to end to determine the length. Write that number down- because it may need to be adjusted depending on the strap placement on the bag, the hardware used and what material the strap is made out of.

A tote mock-up made of oaktag. Handles are clipped to the top to test for fit.

In this drawstring backpack mock-up, I used tissue paper so that it would better hold a “cinched effect”. The cord is wrapped around the cinched opening and pulled to the bottom. Once I was happy with the way that it fit, I measured the cord and recorded that as my strap length.

Dress forms playing dress-up with the bags.

This is a good time to refer to the bag pattern. Where is the strap placed? It is aligned at the top of the bag or a few inches down, if you are making out of fabric, you’ll need to account for the seam allowance. Would you prefer the added polish and flexibility of a D-ring? If so, then you will need to consider the diameter of the ring to the overall length.

Here is a handy guide to use as a general rule of thumb in determining the appropriate strap length for each style of bag. Remember- this is just for reference, make the length that suits you.

1. Wristlet (6 to 10 inches)

2. Short Handle (12 to 20 inches)

3. Shoulder (30 inches)

4. Long Shoulder (40 inches)

5. Crossbody (50 inches)

6. Extra Long (60 inches)

7. Adjustable (22 to 60 inches)

Drop Length

After you determine the optimal length for your strap, we need to talk about the drop length. Drop length is defined as the distance between the top of the bag and the top of the handles.

The Wesley Shoulder Bag from my book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches and More. Compare the drop of the bag to the length of the arm. Would that be comfortable for you to carry?

How do you like to wear your bag? Some people like their tote to sit close to their body, while others want a little more room. Thinking about which one you'd prefer can help you decide on the perfect drop length. Choosing a longer drop length can make a big difference in giving you more space to maneuver. (Like when you are standing at the door holding onto a kid and reaching into the bag that is on your shoulder and trying not to break your wrist.)

If you're unsure about the right length, the easiest way to get an idea of which drop length would work best for you is again, measuring a bag that you already own and find comfortable to carry. Even if your current bag is a little snug for your taste, measuring the drop length of the handles can still give you an idea of what would work best for you.

The drop length of a bag strap may be altered by an adjustable slide. *blog post coming soon!

Fabric and Materials

Once you have the length, width and drop determined- now it is time to consider what fabric or material you are going to make your straps or handles out of. Lately designers are shedding a new light on handles as the primary design feature of a handbag. Take cotton webbing for example. It is the new design detail that’s been featured on bags of every price point. Inspired by the logo-mania trend of recent seasons, these woven wonders are giving our everyday bags a whole new lease on life, lending them a high-fashion feel. But the excitement doesn’t end there. You can also make the strap with a chain, leather (genuine or imitation), Kraft-tex, fabric or any combination of the bunch.

A recent visit to JoAnn’s Fabric confirmed the webbing strap trend!

See how a strap can change the entire look and function of a bag? This bag is the Morganne bag in my book. Made in quilting cotton with a contrast cross-body strap, it is the perfect bag for a child. In silk with a gold chain, you are ready to go out on the town.

Straps are such a fun way to introduce an individual approach to a handbag, distinguishing it as its own distinctive piece. I am so excited to see the bags that you are going to make. Please use the hashtag #sewbags on social media- and be sure to tag me @littlestitchstudio.

In my next post, I am going to explore some essential bag making hardware: swivel hooks, slide adjusters, and rings.

XO, Hilarie

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How to care for your clothing

Loved Clothes Last

Until very recently, caring for and mending our clothes and other textiles was a necessity.  Sometimes because of rations or scarcity, but more often, because clothing was valued. Time and effort went into both purchasing and maintaining a wardrobe.

The key to a longer-lasting wardrobe is to care for your clothing. Treat clothes gently and mend them when they need repair.  That means sewing on buttons, replacing a hem or mending a moth hole.  Through these small acts, we will create a more meaningful relationship with the things that we purchase and prolong the life of our clothes.  

Prolonging the life of your clothes

With the variety of modern fabrics, content labels, care labels, natural fibers, synthetic, stain resistant, wrinkle free, it is easy to become overwhelmed and just throw everything in the wash at once. Caring for textiles is a skill and one that is built over time and gained by testing different products and techniques. Generally, it helps to have a basic understanding of the care and keeping of each type of fiber and garment. Washing, drying and storing are all key factors in extending the life of clothing and home textiles.

For those of you who are interested in learning more about the how’s and why’s of textile and garment care, this book Home Comforts by Cheryl Mendelson is written for you! (I credit her with everything I know about keeping house.) It is so well researched and thoughtful- it literally has everything you need to know about textile care, repair, stain removal and proper storage.

The washing process is harsh on clothing and textiles. As a general rule, you only want to wash clothing when it is necessary.  Clothing should be washed or dry cleaned only when it is soiled.  Over washing fades the color and wears the fibers out rapidly.  Each garment comes tagged with a care label.  Try to make a practice of reading those and sort your laundry and wash accordingly.

As a gentle alternative to washing, allow your clothing items time to air out.  A good 24 hours or so will allow the moisture from the body to evaporate and air to naturally deodorize your garment.  I have a large basket in my room for this purpose.  When I change at night, I drape my top, pants and bra over the side to air. (Socks, undies, running clothes are an exception. Wash those after each wear.  Every time.)  For dresses, jackets or anything that needs to be hung, I have a hook next to my closet for this purpose.  Then in the morning, I brush the items before replacing into my drawer or closet.  

If after airing and brushing I still feel like my clothing could use a good re-fresh, I use a hand held steamer and some laundry spray.

In my laundry room (basement) I have a sorting table where I lay all delicate and hand washable items.  Underneath that are 4 baskets, one for whites, light colors, dark colors, and sheets and towels.  Additionally, I have two drying racks and a laundry line.  Most clothes are washed and hung to dry.  After they are taken off the line, I put them in the dryer for 3-5 minutes to soften and get the wrinkles out.

Storage

 There is so much I could write on storing!  Long term storage, short term (day-to-day), seasonal, attic, you get it.  For this post, I am just concentrating on basic closet storage.  Though keep in mind that soil and stains attract insects. When allowed to remain on clothing, stains set in and become permanent.  You never want to store dirty clothes.  Clothing storage should accommodate hanging as well as folded items. Closets, drawers and shelves are all necessary- that doesn’t mean they have to be large.  Just clean and organized.  An organized closet is not only welcoming, but allows you to see what you have.

 Hanging storage

Avoid using wire hangers and plastic bags.  Wire can rust and distort the shoulder line.  Instead, use wood or plastic hangers that are designed for each type of garment.  Jackets, pants, shirts, dresses, skirts all have hangers designed to fit.  It may seem like a big and unnecessary waste, but it is an investment that will go a long way toward keeping your clothing in tip top shape.

Flat storage

As a general rule, when folding and stacking clothes in a drawer or on a shelf, place the heavier, bulkier items on the bottom.  Also, try to alternate the way that you fold your shirts and sweaters after each wear so that a permanent crease does not develop.  As a space saver for packing and storing, consider rolling items such as socks and undies.  Rolling can decrease the amount of storage space and prevent wrinkles.

 What other clever tips do I have to share, you might wonder? 

Here are five must-haves for anyone who’s interested in making their clothing last longer, their wallet a little fatter, and the world a little greener.

Clothes Brush  This brush style is great for jackets, coats, pants, jeans and most sturdier clothing. Just a quick brush with the nap of the fabric and then against, helps to remove dust, hair, and debris.

Cashmere Brush Yep, it is an expensive one, but trust me, this brush lasts and is worth every penny. I have cashmere sweaters that I’ve worn winter after winter for 20 years. They still look as good as new.

Steamer This one is lightweight, doesn’t drip and steams and cleans like a champ.

Laundry Spray This has the most delicate of scents and really makes your clothes and sheets smell pretty. This one too is a new favorite and is great for ironing: Soak

Ivory Soap This is a classic and what I use for all hand washables. It is gentle, fragrance free, and cheap. A little goes a long way.

I hope that this post may encourage more consideration about what you wear and how you care for it, and ultimately, discourage thoughtless consumerism.

XOXO, Hilarie

Sewing Fundamentals: Fabric Grain

When learning to sew, there are so many things to try to keep in mind.  Adults, in my experience, are really focused on trying to sew a straight line and make their project perfect- even the first time.  While I do appreciate the impulse, I try to explain that sewing is just so much more than straight stitching.  That will come with time, I promise!  Instead, what I like to emphasize is the importance of taking your time to prepare your work.  By learning to slow down and focus on the fabric grain, cutting and pinning, you will end up with a vastly superior finished product than one that might be stitched “straight” but sloppily prepared. 

To that end, I am beginning a blog series on Sewing Fundamentals.  Grain, Fabric, pattern markings, pinning, basting, measuring, tools.  These are the true basics.  Also- for those of you that are local, I am offering this in a hands-on workshop version this coming Saturday, April 13.  The actual project is to make cloth napkins, but with that, you will gain so much experience that will help lay a foundation and true understanding of learning to sew.

Broadly speaking, fabric can be organized into three categories.  Woven, stretch and non-woven.  For this post I am focusing on woven fabric. 

Fabric Grain

What is grain?  Simply put, grain is the direction of the weave in the fabric.  Fabric is created by weaving two or more threads at right angles to each other.  There is the lengthwise grain and the crosswise grain.  The lengthwise grain, called the warp, runs up and down while the crosswise grain, called the weft, is made from threads woven over and under the lengthwise grain from side to side.  As the fabric is woven, the selvedge is created by the weft threads turning as they are being woven in the opposite direction.  This creates a continuous binding on the length of the fabric.

When you examine a piece of fabric, you can see these two grain lines and selvedge. 

 The reason why these grain lines are so important is that they react in different ways.  The warp thread, or lengthwise grain, is the stronger of the two and therefore less likely to stretch out of shape.  There are more warp threads per square inch than there are weft threads.  These extra threads create strength.  The lengthwise grain is the grain most used in garment construction.

The weft, or crosswise grain, is less dense and therefore has some give because of the over and under weaving.  Because of this, it does make for more comfortable garments that have some inherent give where necessary, (think shoulder seams and sleeves).

That bring us to the third grain, the bias.  The bias grain refers to fabric that is cut at a 45 degree angle to the crosswise and lengthwise grain.  Bias creates softness and a drape that can follow a curve to stunning effect.

Bias cut skirt, net-a-porter

DIY umbrella hole tablecloth, a bias binding tutorial

The problem with most outdoor tablecloths is that great ones are hard to find. You might remember to buy one as you wander through Target in March, but it will invariably lack what you really need it to-to accommodate the umbrella pole. Actually, you’ll probably be annoyed enough that you’ll just buy whatever they have.  Who cares that 9 other families at the pool have the same one. That is, until you get to the pool and stand there with a cooler, 4 bags, a float and a few kids looking for the table that your spouse "saved" for you by putting that tablecloth on the table. 

Go ahead and buy a regular round tablecloth in a fabric that you love, I'm going to show you how to adapt it to fit around an umbrella pole- without adding a zipper.

MATERIALS

In this tutorial, I am using a 60" outdoor tablecloth purchased from Target 4 or 5 years ago.

5 yards of pompom trim (measure the hemmed edge of your tablecloth to be sure of the exact yardage)

3 1/2 yards of single fold 3/4" bias tape

2 yards of 1/4" velcro

Coordinating polyester thread

Chalk

CUTTING THE TABLECLOTH

On a large flat surface, fold the tablecloth in half along the center, carefully aligning the edges.  

Find and mark the center point in the tablecloth.  Mark the spot with a pen or a chalk line.  Using this diagram as an example, cut through the fabric along the dotted line until you reach the center point.  At the center point mark, cut a 3" half circle through both layers of fabric.

APPLYING THE BIAS TRIM

Bias binding, or trim can be purchased at the store or cut and pressed on your own.  Either way, you apply it to curved or straight edges to make a pretty finish.  To do this, you place the binding on the right side of the material matching the edge of the fabric to the edge of the binding.  Stitch these together with a 1/4" seam allowance.  Then turn the binding so that the right side and using the zipper foot on your machine, edgestitch flat.

Cut one 10" strip and 3- 36" strips of bias tape.

Beginning with the short curved center where we will make the umbrella hole, take the 10" piece of bias tape.  Open up the fold on one long side of the bias tape. Starting at one corner, and with the wrong side of the bias tape facing up, pin the raw edge of the tape to the top raw edge of the fabric.

Sew the bias tape to the fabric with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, using the fold of the bias tape as a guide, or path.  When sewing a curved seam, it helps to shorten your stitch length to improve accuracy.  Then just stitch from pin to pin, removing each pin so that you don't stitch over it.  Make sure that the machine needle is positioned correctly to stay along the path.

Next, the longer side pieces.  Take one 36" length of bias tape and pin along one long side of the tablecloth beginning at the top edge of the fabric.  Pin and sew with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, again using the fold of the bias tape as a guide. Make sure that the edges of the fabric and one edge of the bias tape are caught in the seam.

Now, flip the fabric piece so that its right side is facing up. Fold the bias tape over the raw edge of the fabric and pin in place.

Sew the bias tape to the fabric with an edgestitch.

Trim the edges of the bias tape on the long sides, so that they are flush with the edges of the fabric.  Do not trim the 10" piece of bias trim yet.

Now for the curved center, fold the bias tape over the raw edge of the fabric and bias trimmed sides and pin in place.  Sew the bias tape to the fabric with an edgestitch.

ADDING THE VELCRO EXTENSION

With the third length of bias tape, we are going to make an extension to add to the tablecloth.  Take the third length of bias tape and one length of velcro.  Velcro has two sides, a loop side (soft) and a hook side (rough).  

Open the center fold of bias tape and iron flat.  Align the velcro to the far right side of the bias tape and stitch from top to bottom.  I used the loop side of the velcro and a zigzag stitch for this.  

Now lay the left side of the binding under the long bound edge of the tablecloth.  Stitch right over the previous edgestitch.  This way the bound edge of the tablecloth and the velcro form one long strip. 

Now, take the hook side of the velcro and pin and stitch it under the opposite side of the bound edge of the tablecloth.  Stitch right over your previous stitches.  You can see that I have used blue thread for this.

ADDING THE POMPOM TRIM

Pin the flat tape section of the pom pom trim along the tablecloth's inside bottom edge so the pom poms are facing outward.  

Attach the zipper foot to your machine using the right side of the foot.

Sew through the middle of the tape side of the pom pom trim from one end of the tablecloth to the other. Backstitch at the beginning and end of this seam.  Make sure you have caught all of the trim and that you haven’t sewn into any of the pom poms.

You may be wondering why I have two rows of stitching on my tablecloth.  Good question! I didn't have quite enough pompom trim to complete this project.  So my trim is just basted on until UPS arrives with the rest :)

I hope that you have enjoyed this tutorial.  Please let me know if I need to clarify any steps.

XO, Hilarie