Website and Blog Update

Earlier this year I switched to a new website provider.  After 8 years of squarespace, I felt as if I needed a platform that offered a bit more automation and room to grow.  Having very outdated website creation experience, there is only so much I can do without having to take a deep dive into coding.

The new and improved website.

So far, I am really pleased with the way that the new website is turning out. I have been able to add retail, a downloadable calendar and new class offerings. The site loads much faster and (I think!) is easier to navigate. It feels a bit more grown-up too, though still very much a work in progress.

As great as the new site is, the platform does not support a traditional blog.  For a creative business, I feel that a blog is still important.  A place to hold all of the tutorials, patterns and content that I have amassed over the years.  To that end, I am keeping the blog on the original squarespace site (www.littlestitchstudionorfolk.com and just creating a link from the new site to the old.  It may take a bit of trial and error to streamline the content, but I think there is a way to make it work.  

The ultimate test in how well a website operates, is of course the user experience. What are some features that your favorite websites offer? Are there some content ideas that you would like me to add? I am working on new patterns, some pre-recorded classes as well as some helpful videos and downloadable guides.

Have you switched website providers?  If so, I'd love to hear about your experience.

XOXO, Hilarie

10 Children's Books About Fashion and Sewing that Feature Black Characters

Children love seeing faces like theirs within the pages of their books. For many years it was often challenging to find books starring kids of color, Ezra Jack Keats comes to mind, but few others.  In recent years, I have found an increase in the number of books that are both fashion and sewing related that feature kids with black and brown skin. This expanded diversity not only allows kids the opportunity to see themselves in these stories but also helps broaden the perspective of all children by fostering their sense of empathy and connection with characters who might look different from themselves.

To help you discover a few new titles perfect for reading with your kids, I’m sharing a few of my favorite books for elementary school readers. Whether they're sewing quilts or navigating friendships, designing gowns or standing their ground, these characters exude confidence, happiness — and individuality.

Elementary School Readers

Fancy Party Gowns, Blumenthal, A Story about Ann Cole Lowe

Mary Had a Little Glam, Sauer 

I had a Favorite Dress, Ashburn 

I had a Favorite Hat, Ashburn

Stitchin’ and Pullin’: A Gee’s Bend Quilt,  Patricia McKissack

Mary Wears What She Wants, Negley 

Tar Beach , Faith Ringold 

Later Elementary and Middle School Readers

 Mrs. Lincoln’s Dressmaker, Lynda Jones The story of Elizabeth Keckley

How to be a Fashion Designer, Leslie Ware

Sew Fab, Leslie Ware

Form, Function and Culture

In Pattern Making, there are three basic types of sleeves; set-in, raglan and kimono. All other sleeve styles are developed from one of these three blocks.

However, in this era of globalization, it no longer feels correct to refer to a style as a “kimono sleeve”. What then, is an appropriate name for a bodice where the sleeve is integrated into the design instead of a separate piece? “T-shape? Extended sleeve? Robe?

I have been giving a lot of thought to the intersection of cultural appropriation, pattern making and fashion.  Currently, I am working on a new pattern, one that is loose fitting and has a kimono-style sleeve.  But I am at a loss of how to describe it. This simple shape, once cut and constructed, no longer looks like the rectangle that is was essentially developed from. The straight grain of the fabric will run up and down the body, and the cross grain across the shoulders. Different than batwing, not dolman, not tunic.

A respectful interpretation of the world’s cultures can allow all cultures to mutually enrich themselves and bring about genuine benefits to society.  A diversity of cultural influences is what makes fashion, like art and music evolve and thrive.  Additionally, as a sewing and fashion educator, I have a classroom of kids that come from all manner of background and identity.  They look to me to guide them and to set an example.  To foster a truly global society, it is imperative to teach inclusivity, appreciation and respect.  If these students leave my class, and future fashion studies unversed, then we as educators are part of the problem.

 Traditional clothing is not simply functional or ornamental.  It is infused with meaning and is woven into the very identity of a people, geographic area or a period in history. That is why designing clothing without consideration for the underlying cultural significance can lead to ignorance of the history of entire communities  For a much more eloquent and thoughtful explanation, read this post, My Kimono is Not Your Couture, by Emi Oto.

So what is appropriate and respectful?  Is it enough to describe the top as having a “kimono sleeve”, but then include a sentence that invites conversation and states that that is the technical name of the sleeve type?  Could it be described as having a kimono style influence- even though it bears little resemblance to an actual kimono? If we go forward and “ignore” traditional influences, we lose the opportunity to learn and appreciate.  The preservation of culture and cultural diversity gives voice to each and every person in this global community and can affect real and lasting change.

 With that sentiment, I am asking you, my readers and friends, to please share your thoughts with me. How do you recognize and appreciate global fashion while still being intentional and sensitive? What do you make of “technical” terms that have no clear replacement? I do look forward to your comments.

A Conversation with Cathy Lewis

Recently I was invited to sit down with Cathy Lewis of WHRV’s Hearsay With Cathy Lewis to talk about my work, my new book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches and More and what it is like teaching kids (and adults!) how to sew. Here is the podcast link for you to listen and join in the conversation.

https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/hearsay-with-cathy-lewis/id218834565

XO, Hilarie

Sew Bags; The Blog Tour Re-cap

I teach sewing and design because I believe that everyone possesses some innate creative ability and once you tap into that and discover your passion, it can build confidence that flows into all aspects of life.

These past few weeks, I have had to take a deep dive into my own confidence reserve.

As the publication of my book drew near, I knew that it was time to begin to organize a promotional book blog tour. In order for the book to sell, people have to know about it - right? By May, sheer panic set in. Besides the fact that I am terribly introverted and likely would never own a phone, let alone leave the house given the chance, I had to ask complete strangers to read my book and to (PLEASE!) make something from it and share it with the world.

At first, I thought, who am I going to ask? Fabric companies? maybe. Celebrities? nah. Some sewing blogging superstars with comanding audiences? (well…..) Then I began to scroll through my Instagram feed and consider who’s posts I always look forward to reading. Who seems approachable enough to ask? Who would even recognize my name if I did message them? Finally- who has a similar philophsy to teaching and style and would “get” my message. Well- that certainly narrowed down the possibilities considerably. Since I teach sewing, who better to ask then other fashion-forward sewing teachers too.

As it turns out, sewing teachers might just be among the nicest and most approachable people ever! Each of the following women are incredibly busy with a business, projects and families of their own. I owe them a huge thank you for the kindness that they have shown me by generously sharing their time and talents. I hope that each of you will read their posts and draw inspiration from their interpretation of my bag patterns.

Jesy, Needle, Ink and Thread

In a conversation with a friend who is also a sewing teacher, she asked me if I know Jesy. I answered that I didn’t. She told me to check out her work and mentioned that she is exceptionally talented and super nice! As it turns out, besides teaching sewing, Jesy was a former co-owner of Sew Dayton, has contributed a project to a new book as well as sewing custom projects and alterations. If she can pull that off, maybe a small bag wouldn’t be too much to ask:) Jesy agreed and was in!

Jesy made the Bunny Backpack from Sew Bags.

Adorable, right? I love her smile.

Jesy’s Tooth Fairy Pillow project is featured in this book, 50 Little Gifts.

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Julia, Old Spool Sewing

Several months ago while looking through Instagram, a friendly smiling face appeared in my feed. I clicked on her post and woah! Another fun sewing studio for kids. Her studio looked bright and filled with lots of smiling kids. Then I saw this cute, cute red wrap top. Well, I do love a wrap top so I commented. She wrote back and then BAMN! #insta-friends:) As it turns out, Julia went to Parson’s and has a degree in Fashion Design which she now uses in her efforts to inspire and cultivate creative talent. So…. I asked Julia too- And she said yes!

Julia made the Abigail Boxed- Bottom tote - complete with hand dyed shibori!

The red wrap-top

Julia was a contestant on Slice TV’s Stitched.

Katie of Katie Kortman

Last summer I saw on Facebook that a new sewing and art studio for kids had opened in a neighboring city. Intrigued, I clicked to find out more. It turns out, Katie had moved in like the week before. I guess as a military mom of 4, she was well practiced in the art of moving and managing kids and projects. I reached out to introduce myself and see if she was taking on new students as I was maxed out at the time and know that families would be thrilled to hear that there was another place to send their kids. This was before Katie blew up Instgram with her hashtag game and spinning color wheel of fun. So- is it safe to say I “knew” Katie before she was famous?? Somehow she fit my project in with everything else she is juggling. Hello- new Spoonflower collection!!

Katie’s handprinted suede Savannah Cross-body bag.

Katie’s fabric collection with Spoonflower.

More fabric and color inspiration!

Tree, Stitchless TV

A few years ago during Makers for Fashion Revolution, #makersforfashrev, I discovered both Tree of Stitchless TV and Kate of Sewing with Kate. Tree had posted a picture of a bathing suit that she had made with a custom printed fabric. I commented that years ago, I worked with a swimwear designer and had made many, many suits over the years. She immediately wrote back and we have followed each other’s feed since. While we have never met in person, I do feel a strong creative connection with Tree. She is absolutely fearless in her approach to both teaching and sewing. And, as many of you know, I loathe TV and YouTube but make a special point of sharing her videos and tutorials with my students. They are that good!

One thing that Tree always emphasizes is her belief that with a bit of experience, anyone can learn to design a bag or garment and experience the absolute thrill of using and wearing something that you made yourself.

When you see something like this, it is an immediate signifier that the person both knows what they are doing and is fearless in her approach.

How beautiful is this coat that the wearer made in one of Tree’s workshops?

Ribbon embroidery on mohair. Seriously.

Kate, Sewing with Kate

Kate had me at first glance of her Sashiko. Anyone who spends that much time sewing by hand is someone who really understands the importance of attention to detail. Hand sewing allows a much finer degree of control over the fabric and fit, compared with using a machine. Kate understands that. Also- perhaps since she is a mom of a bunch of kids, hand sewing is portable and thus, gets done and is a great way to keep your hands busy while endless waiting for kid sports and activities.

After gushing over her sashiko samplers and bags (she has an etsy shop with patterns too! ) I then saw her clothes. That was it- I was a fan for life. Come on now, how freaking fantastic are these next two dresses? The embellishment and that leather. So I had to ask….would you make one of my bags?

Kate made the Rachel Drawstring Pouch- and hand stitched the sashiko pattern before sewing the bag.

This proves that there is nothing better than a well- fitting garment with one stand out feature.

Leather shoulder inset of my dreams.

I just love how each of these ladies took the original pattern and spun it to create something that is unique to their style. That is my ultimate goal as a pattern maker, sewing teacher and now author. To impart the lesson that you don’t have to just follow the pattern; treat the suggestions in your pattern as starting points and use your own imagination and skills to make the bag that suits you.

Happy Sewing!

XOXO, Hilarie

Please remember to tag me on social media with your makes using the hashtag #sewbags. I can’t wait to see what you share.

Little Stitch Studio Featured in Inside Business

I was thrilled by the opportunity to sit down with Sandra Pennecke, of Inside Business, the business journal of The Virginian Pilot, and share a bit about Little Stitch Studio and the work that I do.

Click here to read the article.

Four years ago, I took a leap to pursue this dream, which led to another, and then another. There are no promises in life, but I have learned that with hard work, time and a passion, dreams can take you far.

XOXO, Hilarie

Adult Sewing Workshop Re-Cap and Re-Fresh

A pretty fantastic leather clutch made in the January workshop.

Last weekend, I taught my first adult workshop of this year. Like with each workshop that I do with children, I learn something new. As I clean up after everyone leaves, I think about what went right during the time and also what I can do to streamline or improve the experience for everyone next time. This workshop was no different. Each of the ladies that attended, learned something and left with a fabulous bag. However, it occurred to me, that maybe the adult workshops might be even better if they weren’t set up in the same manner as the ones for children. (If I didn’t love designing and sewing so much, I might be a professional organizer, planner or over thinker:) With that in mine, I plan to try a couple of different workshop models going forward. The first will be very much like the model that I have used in the past, where you can come in, learn a skill and leave with a fun, small (but stylish!) project in two hours. This is going to be how I will offer the beginners workshop. For a larger or more time intensive project, instead of a two hour workshop that inevitably lasts 3 or more, I’ll schedule it for more time to begin with. This way, we can take our time, relax, enjoy the learning experience, camaraderie and walk away with something special.

A longer workshop will also allow time for a break and some treats too! What do you think? What would you like to learn how to make?

Next workshops:

Cape or Poncho

The poncho and cape feature a generous, oversized drape. The sleeveless construction and extended hem make it ideal for layering - I like it best over skinny pants or jeans. Whether made of french terry, fleece, or lux cashmere, it will instantly update your much loved basics.

Saturday, March 16, 10-2 PM; $110

Click here to learn more.

Bralette- Coming Soon! I promise. As many of you know, I have been dealing with migraines and vertigo for the past 5 weeks. As such, I’m off my game a bit. For a project like a bralette that requires a bit more precision and detail, I need to get better before I can teach it.

Best,

Hilarie XOXO

Setting the Scene for 2019

If learning to sew is one of your new years resolutions, I have just the classes for you.

Beginning January 19, I will host monthly learn to sew classes for adults. As I haven’t found just the right day and time to meet everyone’s schedule, some classes will be offered Saturday mornings, others on a week night.

Since I love making bags (and have written a new book on bag making!) They are so quick, relatively easy and near instant gratification. Look forward to lots of bag making opportunities.

January’s Adult Sewing Workshop : Zipper Clutch Purse- In this skill building class you will learn all the basics of sewing, including learning the parts of the sewing machine and how to use them, learn how to wind a bobbin, thread the machine and troubleshoot common issues. You'll also learn how to cut and pin fabric, learn the basics of understanding seam allowance, straight stitching, sewing curves and corners, and inserting a zipper.

$55, All supplies included.

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February workshop ( date pending) Lace Bralette, it is both beautiful and functional. Some sewing experience required.

What would you like to learn to make?

Happy new year!

Hilarie XOXO

Make Do and Mend

Would it surprise you to learn that the average piece of clothing is worn only 7 times before it is discarded? Seven times. When I was younger, and considering wether a purchase was “worth it”, I would calculate the Cost Per Wear- and use that number to decide how much to spend on an item of clothing. If I knew that I would only wear something 7 times, it would hardly be worth spending much on. Now a coat, sweater or dress that might be worn a few times a year for many years would be a different story. I have one grey cashmere cardigan that is fairly tattered by now, but it has been in constant seasonal rotation for twenty years. It might have cost me $100 back then, but overtime, just pennies per wear. A new pair of jeans might cost even more than that- but what if they are only worn for a single season? Do you understand my point?

During World War II, the Make Do And Mend campaign was Vogue's call to women to alter, change, patch or re-do clothing rather than wasting precious resources. It encouraged homemakers to be resourceful and thrifty. Handmade and hand-repaired clothing became an essential part of wartime life. People got creative across the country out of necessity, finding ways to make and care for clothes - and forge their own wartime style. At that time, more people knew how to sew and how to repair their own clothes.

Growing up, clothing was a luxury. I am the oldest of 10 children- fortunately (since I do love clothes) I learned to sew at a very young age. I spent many years practicing on thrift store bargains and hand me downs. Through necessity, an article of clothing could live many lives before finally hitting the scrap bin. This experience has greatly informed my style and point of view.

Sustainability is a key buzz word in the world of fashion and textiles these days. With good reason! Next to fossil fuels, the fashion industry is the worlds biggest environmental offender. But it doesn’t have to be. We can disrupt the cycle. Buy less, care for what you have, swap with a friend, learn to mend! I promise you won’t regret it!

If you want a stylish way to begin this journey, look no farther! I am having a Visible Mending Workshop for teens and adults on November 10.

Last year’s sweatshirt is this year’s prized top!

Visible mending.

Visible mending on patchwork. Look for this in my shop soon- I just need to remember to frame it:)

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Pop-up Workshop at West Elm VB

I'm excited to share a bit of the sewing workshop that I held at West Elm, VA Beach last weekend.  Earlier this year, I had heard that West Elm was looking for local crafters to feature.  I sent an email introducing myself and telling a bit about what I do.  The next thing I knew, we had a meeting and decided to schedule a Spring Sewing Workshop.  Thrilled at the chance to collaborate, I went home and set to work designing a fun little project. 

We set up shop at the West Elm, VB store for the workshop and exclusive DIY Bunny Kit.  I brought machines, hand sewing needles, my favorite pompom tools and lots of felt.  We divided the kids into groups and got to work.

I was so excited to have goodies from The Royal Chocolate.  The candies were a hit!  They were cut into fine little nuggets- just right for snacking.

Of course, the real joy of sewing with kids begins when the kids start to stuff their softies to bring them to life. 

Thank you to the families who came to sew with us.   It is such a joy to be able to share my passion for sewing (and making pompoms!). Thank you to the West Elm team for putting this together.  We had a ball and look forward to popping-up again!