Bag Making, Book Hilarie Dayton Bag Making, Book Hilarie Dayton

New Course: Draft A Bag- Three Ways

Are you intrigued by the possibility of designing your own purse? Have you admired designer bags and purses and wished that you could make your own?

I am thrilled to launch my new bag design course with Topstitch Makers. This bag design course will help you to create beautiful purses and bags that blend style and function. Through live instruction, you will learn to draft a basic bag pattern and explore a variety of design options. From concept to construction, we will work through three classic bag styles: Clutch, Hobo and Tote. With an emphasis on detail, each lesson will present new techniques such as adding gussets, pockets, structure as well as straps and handles to further develop your skills.

 

Are you intrigued by the possibility of designing your own purse?  Have you admired designer bags and purses and wished that you could make your own? 

I am thrilled to launch my new bag design course with Topstitch Makers. This bag design course will help you to create beautiful purses and bags that blend style and function. Through live instruction, you will learn to draft a basic bag pattern and explore a variety of design options.  From concept to construction, we will work through three classic bag styles: Clutch, Hobo and Tote. With an emphasis on detail, each lesson will present new techniques such as adding gussets, pockets, structure as well as straps and handles to further develop your skills. 

  • You will have opportunities to get help, ask questions, post your progress and benefit from posts your instructor will write that are tailored to the skills you will be learning. This will take place in a dedicated bag design course activity feed.

  • Patterns and instruction will be included with the course series.

  • The sewing sessions will take place over zoom in a professional studio with multiple camera views.

  • The live sewing sessions will be recorded for you to return to at your convenience.

  • Students who register also receive a copy of my book Sew Bags.

 

Topstitch Makers brings together garment sewists to improve their sewing skills, gather in one unique place, to support and learn from each other, so they can reach their sewing goals. Members can attend a variety of live, online sewcial sessions, talks with community leaders and attend instructor guided sewalongs, workshops and courses. It is $4.99 per month to join the community membership and $29 per month to join the community + attend live sewalongs but there's one month free trial, so you can just check it out and come take my course for the course price of $195.

  

The dates are:

Sunday, July 11, 2-3pm EST Welcome Session

Sunday, July 18, 2-4pm EST Sewing the Clutch

Sunday, July 25, 2-4pm EST Sewing the Hobo

Sunday, Aug 1, 2-4pm EST Sewing the Tote

To learn more and register, visit https://www.topstitchmakers.com.

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Book, Fashion Design Hilarie Dayton Book, Fashion Design Hilarie Dayton

Introducing: Sew your own Wraps, Capes & Cover-ups. A Garment Sewing Primer.

I wrote this book to get you excited about making clothing that you will love wearing. The projects are all loose fitting so that you can concentrate on sewing and design and not get too focused on fitting. I show you how to manipulate fabric to make a wardrobe of timeless fashion accessories. Though it is really in the fabrication and finish of each garment where the true test of quality lies. The finish is exceptionally important. Clothing should be as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside. The sewing techniques and projects in this book emphasize this principle of quality construction. Beyond the projects, the book is about craftsmanship. It explains in text and photos how to finish seams, embellish garments, and some pattern manipulation techniques that I hope will inspire you to expand your sewing skills.

Sew your own wraps, capes & Cover-ups by Hilarie Wakefield Dayton

 

 

It is hard for me to believe that I’ve nearly finished my second book, Sew Your Own Wraps, Capes & Cover-ups.  As I work on the last of the illustrations, I am left feeling both exhausted and invigorated.  Writing a book feels a whole lot like having a baby.  From proposal to publication It takes about a year and a half of nearly everything you’ve got.  Then it is submitted to the publishing team to take over and suddenly- is no longer “yours”.  

The editing process is tough-and it can feel so personal.  The manuscript and patterns get passed along to a variety of editors to comb through, question, mark up and pass back.  Of course, without their skillful consideration- there would be no book!  Since this was my second time writing a book, I thought- “I’ve got this! “– and was convinced that it was going to so much easier than the first one.   Then 2020 began.

The manuscript and projects were due at the end of March- only a few weeks after the Governor of Virginia issued Stay at Home orders.  At first the initial 2 -week shelter in place,  seemed like a dream.  More time to write and think!  But, my kids were home too and those early days were filled with so much anxiety.  Over time, we began to feel our way through it, and find a quiet, slower pace.  The book provided a much-needed distraction.  A distraction from politics, from Covid-19, from anxiety, from life really.  

From March- July my business was closed.  I was afraid.  Besides not bringing in any income, I was issuing refunds each week as more classes, workshops, parties and camps were cancelled.  Fortunately, I was able to rearrange my workspace and come up with a plan to return to teaching the day the restrictions were lifted and Virginia went into Phase 3.

A silver lining of the 2020 doomsday cloud is that so many more people are now sewing.  At first it was for the animals injured and abandoned from the fires in Australia, and then Covid hit and we needed masks.  Suddenly sewing machines were sold out everywhere and thread and elastic were scarce.  People were sewing again!  Now that masks are readily available, the new to the sewing crowd folks want to learn more.  I cannot tell you the number of emails and calls I get each day with people eager to sharpen their new-found skills.  

The book feels perfectly timed to help fulfill that burgeoning curiosity in those that are new to sewing as well as an invitation to explore pattern making and garment sewing to those already well on their path to mastery.  As a way of introducing the book concepts and to educate a larger audience, you can look forward to lots of posts about garment sewing, pattern making and fashion design.


About the Book

Sew Your Own Wraps, Capes & Cover-Ups: 16 Variations; Unlimited Possibilities

Fashion made easy

Take your wardrobe from drab to fab with modern wraps, capes, and coverups. Start with the basic sewing patterns, and then customize your unique look with 16 variations and tons of embellishment options. Each pattern comes with variation and design options making it easy to alter looks for any season so you can be fashionable all year round. Learn how to pick the right fabrics to flatter your shape as well as how to best place pockets, details, and embellishments for a truly trendsetting look. 

  • Elevate your wardrobe with stylish women's clothing patterns and designs 

  • No detailed sewing! Simple garments made elegant with guidance on how to cut and drape the fabric into a flattering fit 

  • Customize your unique look with endless embellishment choices



I can’t wait to share the book with you!

XO, Hilarie

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Tips and Tricks for Sewing with leather

There is just nothing like sewing or crafting with beautiful materials. Chief among them for me is leather.

One of the reasons that I was late to release a pattern that requires leather is that for many people, it is tricky to acquire. It is not like you can stop by your local fabric shop and pick up a yard or two. Additionally, while leather is not difficult to sew, you do have to have a few extras available to make it turn out looking fantastic.

There is just nothing like sewing or crafting with beautiful materials. Chief among them for me is leather.

One of the reasons that I was late to release a pattern that requires leather is that for many people, it is tricky to acquire. It is not like you can stop by your local fabric shop and pick up a yard or two. Additionally, while leather is not difficult to sew, you do have to have a few extras available to make it turn out looking fantastic. When I wrote my book, one thing that I really wanted to stress was to not feel the urge to go out and purchase everything that you think you “might” need. As it never really ends- I promise! 45 years in and each time I learn a new technique or take interest in some new esoteric path, the cash flow woes begin! Which brings me back to the point, “Do as I say, not as I do” :)

Life is funny sometimes! Through complete serendipity, and the power of Instagram, I have made a new friend, Faina, who happens to own a leather shop! Leather, Suede, Skins, Inc. in NYC. She so generously shared some of her gorgeous leather with me to make the Poppy Convertible Tote and tutorial. But more than that, you now have a place to shop for leather and an expert to consult! Our hope is that together, we can show you how easy and fun it is to sew with leather.

There are a few supplies that you will need to get started. While some are truly necessary to achieve the correct finished look and make the process so much more enjoyable! There are a few others that are more in the “nice to have” category. I’ll share both with you.


MY FAVORITE LEATHER SEWING TOOLS

Sewing with leather, Tips and Tricks, how to sew leather with a home sewing machine diy leather bag

Walking Foot, or Even-Feed Foot Don’t be intimidated- the walking foot is your friend! This genius device will evenly feed multiple layers of fabric or leather through your machine. No shifting, dragging or puckering.

Silk or Polyester Thread- this is my favorite Additonally, topstitching thread or denim thread works too. Be sure that it is medium weight and made of silk or polyester. Cotton thread will fray and deteriorate over time due to the chemical reaction to the tannins in the leather.

Double Sided Tape Double-sided leather tape comes can hold layers of leather together for stitching and can also be used to hold seams flat. Please remember to test on scrap leather before trying on your project.

Wonder Clips (Medium sized binder clips work too.) Unlike fabric, pinning leather will leave holes. Instead try using clips.

Microtex or leather Sewing Machine Needles These needles have a special shape and point which is designed to pierce leather with little resistance.

Mallet A rubber or bakelite mallet is used to lightly tap seams in order to flatten them.

Rubber Cement Rubber cement works well for gluing seams flat.

Straight Awl My go-to tool to punch holes or enlarge existing holes in canvas and leather.

Rotary Cutter- This smaller one is great for detail work and the larger size can go through leather so easily.
Leather Hole Punch Punch neat and clean holes in leather and canvas. An essential for preparing straps for hardware.

While each of these tools is really helpful, the ones that you truly “need” to begin sewing with leather are the correct needle, thread, walking foot and clips or tape. The rest can be acquired over time. You do not have to have every notion, attachment and gadget. Instead, I encourage you to start small and build your supply stash as you build your skills.


Download your free PDF sewing pattern to make the Poppy Convertible Tote

When learning to sew- or to sew with a new techniques, please take your time and concentrate on accuracy. Unlike sewing with regular fabric, sewing with leather, the threads can't just be pulled out without leaving holes from the previous stitching. By slowing down and concentrating on learning a new skill, you're much more likely to achieve a result you're really proud of.

I hope these tips help you feel more confident about sewing with leather. If you have any questions please feel free to get in touch. And if you’re looking for a fun project to practice your leather sewing skills, the Poppy Convertible Tote is a great first project. It only requires sewing straight lines- no curves, and the pattern gives you detailed, fully photographed instructions to guide you step by step as you make your first leather bag.

XOXO, Hilarie

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5 Best Fabrics for Sewing Bags and Purses

Choosing fabric for a bag is always a balance between form and function.  Functionality is key!  Assessing the level of use the bag will endure over its lifetime is critical in determining the right type of fabric.  You can begin by asking yourself, when will the bag be used?  What will it carry?  Is it for day or evening?  Is it for a child? Once the functionality question is answered, then it is time to consider weight.  

 5 Best Fabrics for Sewing Bags and Purses

Choosing fabric for a bag is always a careful balance between form and function.  With functionality being key!  Assessing the level of use the bag will endure over its lifetime is critical in determining the right type of fabric.  You can begin to determine this by asking yourself, when will the bag be used?  What will it carry?  Is it for day or evening?  Is it for a grownup, teenager or child? Once the functionality question is answered, then it is time to consider weight.  

 Generally speaking, fabric falls into a couple of main categories, apparel weight, quilt weight and home décor or upholstery weight. Bags are unlike clothes though, and as such, you can mix and match weights from various categories, keeping in mind of course overall function.

 Most of the bags that I make are for day and evening use.  As such, I do layer interfacing and linings for structure and try to find a mid-weight fabric that will support all that I am carrying around.  To that end, it is time for the fun stuff: color, texture and pattern!

 Pattern or solid?  Bold color or neutral?  Fabric or leather?  What about mixing it up and combining leather with fabric or a print and solid with a neon strap? Just consider the possibilities……..

MY FAVORITE BAG-MAKING FABRICS

 

LEATHER

Best leather for sewing bags and purses, DIY Leather bag book

Nothing beats the durability of a genuine leather bag. The leather doesn’t even have to be new. Thrift stores, eBay, even your own closet likely offer a plethora of options. Most conventional home sewing machines, fitted with a leather needle and a teflon foot can handle leather up to about 3-ounce weight. Thrift stores and eBay are my go-to sources for purchasing leather.

DECORATOR WEIGHT

Best fabric for sewing bags and purses, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects

Decorator Weight, or home decor fabric is a bit of a deceptive term as it encompasses fabric that is suitable for upholstery as well as drapery and pillow weight fabric. So, there are as many options here as there are fabrics. Somewhere in the mid-weight is likely best. What can your machine handle? The bags above were created from a variety of weights. The heavier weight fabric would be great for bags that have fewer seam lines and therefore fewer bulky layers to stitch through.

TWEED

How to sew bags with wool, wool clutch, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects

To me, Harris Tweed is the standard of bag making fabric. It is gorgeous, drapes beautifully, feels sumptuous and the depth of color is unparralled. However, true Harris Tweed is expensive- and if that isn’t enough, the shipping (from the UK) adds even more. So, a conventional tweed looks pretty great in comparison. Fortunately, tweed is found in all sorts of fabric stores at any price point and in old clothes too. (Carbon footprint reminder!)

CANVAS

Easy tote bags to sew, canvas bag, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects

Canvas Fabric is generally inexpensive, sturdy, easy to find and available in color and pattern. It is truly ideal and such a great substrate with which to create a durable and stylish bag. Like with so many other fabrics, there is a range of weights available. You will want to look for a medium weight canvas, in the range of 5-10 ounces per yard.

Here are a few cotton canvas fabric that I like to use when making bags.

Robert Kaufman Big Sur Canvas

Unbleached Cotton Drill

Rifle Paper Co makes some really dreamy floral patterns.

MID-WEIGHT WOVEN

Best fabrics for sewing bags and purses, DIY leather bag, Sew Bags

Hands down, Robert Kaufman Essex Linen is one of my favorite bag making fabrics. It is truly beautiful and available in so many colors. Though at the lighter weight for bag making, adding layers of interfacing and/or interlining or even quilting goes a long way toward adding shape and body.


If you would like to gain a deeper understanding of fabric and fibers, I’ve written a guide to help you. You can get it by clicking the link below.


The featured bags are projects from my new book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects, available at book stores nationwide.

What are your favorite fabrics to make bags out of?

XOXO, Hilarie

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Bag Making, Book, Sewing and Construction, Tutorial Hilarie Dayton Bag Making, Book, Sewing and Construction, Tutorial Hilarie Dayton

How to make an adjustable purse strap

An over-the-shoulder bag doesn’t always work so great when you have kids or say, you need your hands to hold something else- or nothing. Years ago, the cross-body bag made a strong comeback as has the more recent resurgence of the “belt bag” (formally known as the fanny pack). What makes these bags so great is the ability to adjust the length of the strap. Whether you want to adjust it to fit your outing, outfit or just personal strap length preference, with a quick slide of the hardware, you are ready to turn any silhouette into a cross-body and reinvigorate your bag carrying game.

How to make adjustable purse strap adjustable shoulder strap bag strap tutorial double sided strap

An over-the-shoulder bag doesn’t always work so great when you have kids or say, you need your hands to hold something else- or nothing. Years ago, the cross-body bag made a strong comeback as has the more recent resurgence of the “belt bag” (formally known as the fanny pack). What makes these bags so great is the ability to adjust the length of the strap. Whether you want to adjust it to fit your outing, outfit or just personal strap-length preference, with a quick slide of the hardware, you are ready to turn any silhouette into a cross-body style and reinvigorate your bag-carrying game.


Here’s a quick tutorial to show you how to make an adjustable purse strap!

How to make an adjustable purse strap

Commitment-free straps, for when you can't decide.

The double-fold strap and Savannah Cross-body bag used in this tutorial are projects from my book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More.

Supplies needed:

Strapping plus two 3” long tabs of strapping (to connect a D ring to each side of the bag) I’ll explain:) You can always use leather or cotton webbing straps in the same length and width as an alternative to fabric straps.

2 D-Rings *

1 Strap slider adjuster

The strap, tabs, D-rings and Slider all need to be the same width. In this tutorial, mine are 1/2”.

*If you are unable to find a D-ring the same size and color as your slider, you can always make some after-market improvements. For this tutorial, I used a pair of pliers to remove the center slide and made a set of D-ish (square, actually!) rings. Let’s call them a D+ pair.

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Adjustable Straps

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Take one of the 3” tabs and slide over the D-ring, folding in half so that the raw edges align. Pin and stitch in place about 3/4- 1” below the hardware. Repeat for the second tab.

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Place the slide adjuster right side down, with the strap placed with the outer side facing down, too. Thread the long piece of strap (the tail) through the slide adjuster’s center bar.

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Set your sewing machine to a narrow stitch, (around the 2.0 range). Stitch across the raw edge. Before you do this, grab both your top and bobbin thread and wrap around your finger while sewing to guide your machine and ensure that it sews smoothly along the strap’s end and you won’t get a “birds nest”.

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Do you see how the edge of the strap is just slightly narrower than the rest of the strap? Depending on your choice of fabric, you could use an iron to spot shrink it, but that is another lesson. By shrinking the end just a bit, it will allow the tab to fold in and the edges to be concealed within the fold.

Fold the end of the strap under about 1” and tuck the raw edge inside that fold about 1/2” and pin.

Stitch in place. Make sure to reinforce with a back stitch to secure.

For a wider strap, I would likely stitch the width of the strap in a rectangular box but for a 1/2” width, one line of stitching should do.

The raw edges are completely concealed. No visible threads!

The raw edges are completely concealed. No visible threads!

Threading the Slide Bar

This part is a little bit tricky the first time. Here is a picture and a drawing to help you visualize the steps. First, locate the slider with the center bar. We are going to take the “tail” of the strap and thread it through D-ring (number 1), over the center slide (number 2) and through the opposite D-ring (number 3).

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Tabs one and three will be sewn into the side seams of the bag.

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This picture is to illustrate the strap in relation to the bag.

How to make adjustable purse strap adjustable shoulder strap bag strap tutorial double sided strap

In any bag making venture, (generally!) this strap will be added way before the bag is complete. This picture is to give you the general idea (and for you to go get my book:) for a more complete lesson.

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Feed the “tail” through the other D-ring tab on the opposite side of the bag. Before you sew - make sure that the strap is facing the correct way and has not twisted in the threading process. Fold and stitch the raw edge of the “tail” to the second side tab.


An adjustable strap can be used with any bag that has a removable strap. Imagine for a moment how this might change your bag carrying experience. One bag, thoughtfully designed with the right hardware and removable straps- could at once be a handbag, crossbody bag, clutch, tote or shoulder bag with the quick switch of a strap. Think about it.

Consider adding an additional “guitar style” strap to elevate your everyday bag.

Consider adding an additional “guitar style” strap to elevate your everyday bag.

Straps are such a fun way to introduce an individual approach to a handbag, distinguishing it as its own distinctive piece. I am so excited to see the bags that you are going to make. Please use the hashtag #sewbags on social media- and be sure to tag me @littlestitchstudio.

Are there any specific techniques that you would like to learn? In my next post, I am going to share my favorite bag making fabrics.

XO, Hilarie

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Sew Bags; The Blog Tour Re-cap

I teach sewing and design because I believe that everyone possesses some innate creative ability and once you tap into that and discover your passion, it can build confidence that flows into all aspects of life.

These past few weeks, I have had to take a deep dive into my confidence reserve.

As the publication of my book drew near, I knew that it was time to begin to organize a promotional book blog tour. In order for the book to sell, people have to know about it - right? By May, sheer panic set in. Besides the fact that I am terribly introverted and likely would never own a phone, let alone leave the house given the chance, I had to ask complete strangers to read my book and to (PLEASE!) make something from it and share it with the world.

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I teach sewing and design because I believe that everyone possesses some innate creative ability and once you tap into that and discover your passion, it can build confidence that flows into all aspects of life.

These past few weeks, I have had to take a deep dive into my own confidence reserve.

As the publication of my book drew near, I knew that it was time to begin to organize a promotional book blog tour. In order for the book to sell, people have to know about it - right? By May, sheer panic set in. Besides the fact that I am terribly introverted and likely would never own a phone, let alone leave the house given the chance, I had to ask complete strangers to read my book and to (PLEASE!) make something from it and share it with the world.

At first, I thought, who am I going to ask? Fabric companies? maybe. Celebrities? nah. Some sewing blogging superstars with comanding audiences? (well…..) Then I began to scroll through my Instagram feed and consider who’s posts I always look forward to reading. Who seems approachable enough to ask? Who would even recognize my name if I did message them? Finally- who has a similar philophsy to teaching and style and would “get” my message. Well- that certainly narrowed down the possibilities considerably. Since I teach sewing, who better to ask then other fashion-forward sewing teachers too.

As it turns out, sewing teachers might just be among the nicest and most approachable people ever! Each of the following women are incredibly busy with a business, projects and families of their own. I owe them a huge thank you for the kindness that they have shown me by generously sharing their time and talents. I hope that each of you will read their posts and draw inspiration from their interpretation of my bag patterns.

Jesy, Needle, Ink and Thread

In a conversation with a friend who is also a sewing teacher, she asked me if I know Jesy. I answered that I didn’t. She told me to check out her work and mentioned that she is exceptionally talented and super nice! As it turns out, besides teaching sewing, Jesy was a former co-owner of Sew Dayton, has contributed a project to a new book as well as sewing custom projects and alterations. If she can pull that off, maybe a small bag wouldn’t be too much to ask:) Jesy agreed and was in!

Jesy made the Bunny Backpack from Sew Bags.

Jesy made the Bunny Backpack from Sew Bags.

Adorable, right? I love her smile.

Adorable, right? I love her smile.

Jesy’s Tooth Fairy Pillow project is featured in this book, 50 Little Gifts.

Jesy’s Tooth Fairy Pillow project is featured in this book, 50 Little Gifts.


Julia, Old Spool Sewing

Several months ago while looking through Instagram, a friendly smiling face appeared in my feed. I clicked on her post and woah! Another fun sewing studio for kids. Her studio looked bright and filled with lots of smiling kids. Then I saw this cute, cute red wrap top. Well, I do love a wrap top so I commented. She wrote back and then BAMN! #insta-friends:) As it turns out, Julia went to Parson’s and has a degree in Fashion Design which she now uses in her efforts to inspire and cultivate creative talent. So…. I asked Julia too- And she said yes!

Julia made the Abigail Boxed- Bottom tote - complete with hand dyed shibori!

Julia made the Abigail Boxed- Bottom tote - complete with hand dyed shibori!

The red wrap-top

The red wrap-top

Julia was a contestant on Slice TV’s Stitched.

Julia was a contestant on Slice TV’s Stitched.

Katie of Katie Kortman

Last summer I saw on Facebook that a new sewing and art studio for kids had opened in a neighboring city. Intrigued, I clicked to find out more. It turns out, Katie had moved in like the week before. I guess as a military mom of 4, she was well practiced in the art of moving and managing kids and projects. I reached out to introduce myself and see if she was taking on new students as I was maxed out at the time and know that families would be thrilled to hear that there was another place to send their kids. This was before Katie blew up Instgram with her hashtag game and spinning color wheel of fun. So- is it safe to say I “knew” Katie before she was famous?? Somehow she fit my project in with everything else she is juggling. Hello- new Spoonflower collection!!

Katie’s handprinted suede Savannah Cross-body bag.

Katie’s handprinted suede Savannah Cross-body bag.

Katie’s fabric collection with Spoonflower.

Katie’s fabric collection with Spoonflower.

More fabric and color inspiration!

More fabric and color inspiration!


Tree, Stitchless TV

A few years ago during Makers for Fashion Revolution, #makersforfashrev, I discovered both Tree of Stitchless TV and Kate of Sewing with Kate. Tree had posted a picture of a bathing suit that she had made with a custom printed fabric. I commented that years ago, I worked with a swimwear designer and had made many, many suits over the years. She immediately wrote back and we have followed each other’s feed since. While we have never met in person, I do feel a strong creative connection with Tree. She is absolutely fearless in her approach to both teaching and sewing. And, as many of you know, I loathe TV and YouTube but make a special point of sharing her videos and tutorials with my students. They are that good!

One thing that Tree always emphasizes is her belief that with a bit of experience, anyone can learn to design a bag or garment and experience the absolute thrill of using and wearing something that you made yourself.

When you see something like this, it is an immediate signifier that the person both knows what they are doing and is fearless in her approach.

When you see something like this, it is an immediate signifier that the person both knows what they are doing and is fearless in her approach.

How beautiful is this coat that the wearer made in one of Tree’s workshops?

How beautiful is this coat that the wearer made in one of Tree’s workshops?

Ribbon embroidery on mohair. Seriously.

Ribbon embroidery on mohair. Seriously.

Kate, Sewing with Kate

Kate had me at first glance of her Sashiko. Anyone who spends that much time sewing by hand is someone who really understands the importance of attention to detail. Hand sewing allows a much finer degree of control over the fabric and fit, compared with using a machine. Kate understands that. Also- perhaps since she is a mom of a bunch of kids, hand sewing is portable and thus, gets done and is a great way to keep your hands busy while endless waiting for kid sports and activities.

After gushing over her sashiko samplers and bags (she has an etsy shop with patterns too! ) I then saw her clothes. That was it- I was a fan for life. Come on now, how freaking fantastic are these next two dresses? The embellishment and that leather. So I had to ask….would you make one of my bags?

Kate made the Rachel Drawstring Pouch- and hand stitched the sashiko pattern before sewing the bag.

Kate made the Rachel Drawstring Pouch- and hand stitched the sashiko pattern before sewing the bag.

This proves that there is nothing better than a well- fitting garment with one stand out feature.

This proves that there is nothing better than a well- fitting garment with one stand out feature.

Leather shoulder inset of my dreams.

Leather shoulder inset of my dreams.



I just love how each of these ladies took the original pattern and spun it to create something that is unique to their style. That is my ultimate goal as a pattern maker, sewing teacher and now author. To impart the lesson that you don’t have to just follow the pattern; treat the suggestions in your pattern as starting points and use your own imagination and skills to make the bag that suits you.

Happy Sewing!

XOXO, Hilarie

Please remember to tag me on social media with your makes using the hashtag #sewbags. I can’t wait to see what you share.

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Bag Making, Book Hilarie Dayton Bag Making, Book Hilarie Dayton

Sew Bags- Behind the Scenes (Seams!)

I love, love, love hearing from all of you that have purchased my book, Sew Bags! Thank you! It makes me so very happy to hear how much you are enjoying it. This has been such a meaningful project for me to work on and I could not have done it without the help and dedication of so many talented individuals such as my publisher, Stash Books, an imprint of C&T, Kelly Burgoyne, an amazing photographer, April Mostek, book designer, editors Liz Aneloski, Debbie Rodgers and Beth Baumgartel, and Acquisitions Editor Roxane Cerda. And of course to all of you!! My readers and students who really make all that I do so meaningful.

As for the book itself, where do I start? When I set out to write the book over two years ago, I had a vision of what it might be like, both the experience of writing and what the final book would be like. While the book is so much better than I had envisioned, the actual writing process was really very difficult for me. It took me much longer to prepare each step and thoughtfully communicate clearly yet concisely what I wanted the reader to learn. (I have trouble with distraction on a good day- this project required a few overnight hotel stays and a level of concentration that I was no longer familiar with.) Teaching has kept me grounded in the beginner’s experience. The projects that they are interested in making, the questions that they ask and the troubles that they encounter along the way. I wanted to be certain that each project and step would build confidence instead of frustration. What a valuable experience this was for me! I know that since writing this book, I have become a better teacher.

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I love, love, love hearing from all of you that have purchased my book, Sew Bags! Thank you! It makes me so very happy to hear how much you are enjoying it. This has been such a meaningful project for me to work on and I could not have done it without the help and dedication of so many talented individuals such as my publisher, Stash Books, an imprint of C&T Publishing, Kelly Burgoyne, an amazing photographer, April Mostek, book designer, editors Liz Aneloski, Debbie Rodgers and Beth Baumgartel, and, Acquisitions Editor Roxane Cerda. And of course to all of you!! My readers and students who really make all that I do so meaningful.

As for the book itself, where do I start? When I set out to write the book over two years ago, I had a vision of what it might be like, both the experience of writing and what the final book would be like. While the book is so much better than I had envisioned, the actual writing process was really very difficult for me. It took me much longer to prepare each step and thoughtfully communicate clearly yet concisely what I wanted the reader to learn. (I have trouble with distraction on a good day- this project required a few overnight hotel stays and a level of concentration that I was no longer familiar with.) Teaching has kept me grounded in the beginner’s experience. The projects that they are interested in making, the questions that they ask and the troubles that they encounter along the way. I wanted to be certain that each project and step would build confidence instead of frustration. What a valuable experience this was for me! I know that since writing this book, I have become a better teacher.

Hotel Room, night one. Lots of coffee, zero sleep.

Hotel Room, night one. Lots of coffee, zero sleep.

Inspiration for the color wheel art finally struck! This is actually one of my very favorite pieces hanging in the shop and one that lots of my students always ask to make. Guess what? The upcoming campers in next month’s Art of Design Camp get to m…

Inspiration for the color wheel art finally struck! This is actually one of my very favorite pieces hanging in the shop and one that lots of my students always ask to make. Guess what? The upcoming campers in next month’s Art of Design Camp get to make this project.

The book is about making bags, of course. But really, the lessons are based on classic sewing techniques. Master these skills, and they will forever be part of your repertoire. My goal is to teach you how to sew in such a way that it is not so much about the specific project, but more about the how’s and why’s of each skill. Once you have a basic understanding of construction, the logic of each project becomes considerably clearer.

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Since the projects are bags, they had to be fantastic looking! So many sewing books that I see that are about bag making are either too “crafty looking” or very intensive and require a level of skill, time and supplies that many of my students don’t have. I wanted my book to be different. Part aspirational but definitely attainable. I want it to attract someone with little skill and for them to be excited to make and carry or someone who already knows how to sew, but doesn’t want to spend weeks working on a bag. For this, the bags needed to be simple in design but look like something I would (do!) actually carry.

The projects are grouped into four categories: shoulder-strap bags, tote bags, zipper clutches, and drawstring bags. The first bag sets the skill, and the rest build on that. You will master techniques such as making straps, pleats, boxing the bottom of a bag (to create a base), making pockets, applying bias tape, and installing zippers.

Each project has step by step photos and written instructions. Plus some illustrations! I was so thrilled and flat out stunned during the book writing process when my editor asked if I would considering sharing more of my illustrations. Never did I imagine that they would be on the cover! You will find lots of illustrations throughout the book too. In fact, one of my favorite book details is how they cropped tiny bits a color exercise from the sketch book that I sent in and use them throughout the book to highlight sewing tips.

Trio of Wesley Shoulder Bags.

Trio of Wesley Shoulder Bags.

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Color Scale Exercise

Isn’t that paint detail pretty? I love how it highlights that very important point:)

Isn’t that paint detail pretty? I love how it highlights that very important point:)

I can’t wait to see what you come up with based on the projects in this book. I hope you share! Please tag #sewbags on any Instagram or Facebook posts, etc, when sharing your creations. I hope to have a well of projects made by you that we can all use as inspiration. Any of these bags can be made in so many ways- I cannot wait to see what your interpretation might be.

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If you are in Norfolk next weekend on June 29, please stop by my shop between 3 and 5 PM for some fun as we celebrate the launch of Sew Bags!

You can get your own copy of Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects today through Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Indie Bound, Powells . Signed copies are available through my local, independent bookstore, Prince Books, in Norfolk, VA. They ship too:)

XOXO, Hilarie






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Sewing and Construction, Book, Press Hilarie Dayton Sewing and Construction, Book, Press Hilarie Dayton

Publishers Weekly Calls Sew Bags "enthusiastic as well as informative".

My first book review- can you imagine the angst? Thank you Publishers Weekly for your balanced and flattering review.

As a reader of reviews, I do want to know if the book is worth purchasing or not. I buy books to inspire me, to learn from and if it is a how-to, then how to make the project. Understanding the scope of the book and projects helps me to make a choice. I particularly appreciate knowing the level of education and experience that the author of the book has and who the book is intended for. As an author, my perspective is just as curious. Being in the hot-seat, so to speak though, is new territory!

The Harley Wristlet

The Harley Wristlet

My first book review- can you imagine the angst? Thank you Publishers Weekly for your balanced and flattering review.

As a reader of reviews, I do want to know if the book that I am considering is worth purchasing or not. I buy books to inspire me, to learn from and if it is a how-to, then how to make the project. Understanding the scope of the book and projects helps to inform my choice. I particularly appreciate knowing the level of education and experience that the author of the book has and who the book is intended for. As an author, my perspective is just as curious. Being in the hot-seat, so to speak though, is new territory!

“Dayton, who owns the Little Stitch Studio for children in Norfolk, Va., teaches both kids and adults the joy of sewing in this attractive workbook. Dayton starts with how to think like a designer, discussing being open to different sources of inspiration and visualizing using a mood board. She goes over color values, from primary to tertiary, and describes the design principles of scale, harmony, and proportion. Dayton also defines pattern marking terms, which are “kind of like... another language—but an easy language!” She offers fabric-shopping hints, lists of needed tools, and explanations of how to thread a needle and sew a running stitch; however, her machine-sewing lessons stick close to “know your manual.” The book’s 13 “skill-building” projects are grouped into four categories: shoulder-strap bags, tote bags, zipper clutches, and drawstring bags. Dayton’s instructions for these, with tips throughout (including a text box titled “all about zippers”) are enthusiastic as well as informative. Applicable to a variety of projects despite the handbag focus, this spirited primer will leave readers feeling well-prepared and ready to start sewing.” Publishers Weekly (July)

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Sew Bags, My New Book is Available Now!

I’m so excited to share that my new book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects, was published with C&T/ Stash Books on June 7, 2019. This book brings style and attention to designing and sewing your own bags. It features step by step instructions, along with pictures and full-sized patterns, to make 13 different purses, totes, clutches, and drawstring bags. The bags showcase current trends in handbag design-but draw on traditional sewing and construction techniques. It’s available widely at independent bookstores, online booksellers, and anywhere books are sold.

You can ORDER Sew Bags online through Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Indie Bound, Powells or locally.

SIGNED COPIES are available through my local, independent bookstore, Prince Books, in Norfolk, VA. Prince Books ships and delivers copies too.

For INTERNATIONAL ORDERS online visit website Book Depository or check local bookshops to place a special order. For wholesale accounts, please email sales@ctpub.com to contact C&T directly.

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I’m so excited to share that my new book, Sew Bags: The Practical Guide to Making Purses, Totes, Clutches & More; 13 Skill-Building Projects, was published with C&T/ Stash Books on June 7, 2019.

I cannot believe that my book, Sew Bags, is actually in my hands. After more than two years of making the bags, writing the instructions, laying out the how-tos, drawing the illustrations, editing, then editing some more, while working with a publishing dream team, it is here. It still seems so unreal and exciting. I cannot wait to share it with all of you.

I am finalizing the details for my book celebration party, workshops and book tour and hope to announce most of the events in my July newsletter.

Book details and where to buy. You want to know all about that, right?

This book brings style and attention to designing and sewing your own bags. It features step by step instructions, along with pictures and full-sized patterns, to make 13 different purses, totes, clutches, and drawstring bags. The bags showcase current trends in handbag design-but draw on traditional sewing and construction techniques. It’s available widely at independent bookstores, online booksellers, and anywhere books are sold.

You can ORDER Sew Bags online through Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Indie Bound, Powells or locally.

SIGNED COPIES are available through my local, independent bookstore, Prince Books, in Norfolk, VA. Prince Books ships and delivers copies too.

For INTERNATIONAL ORDERS online visit website Book Depository or check local bookshops to place a special order. For wholesale accounts, please email sales@ctpub.com to contact C&T directly.

Who is ready to start sewing? XOXO



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Bag Making, Bras and Swimwear, Teaching Hilarie Dayton Bag Making, Bras and Swimwear, Teaching Hilarie Dayton

Setting the Scene for 2019

If learning to sew is one of your goals for this new year, I have just the classes for you.

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If learning to sew is one of your new years resolutions, I have just the classes for you.

Beginning January 19, I will host monthly learn to sew classes for adults. As I haven’t found just the right day and time to meet everyone’s schedule, some classes will be offered Saturday mornings, others on a week night.

Since I love making bags (and have written a new book on bag making!) They are so quick, relatively easy and near instant gratification. Look forward to lots of bag making opportunities.

January’s Adult Sewing Workshop : Zipper Clutch Purse- In this skill building class you will learn all the basics of sewing, including learning the parts of the sewing machine and how to use them, learn how to wind a bobbin, thread the machine and troubleshoot common issues. You'll also learn how to cut and pin fabric, learn the basics of understanding seam allowance, straight stitching, sewing curves and corners, and inserting a zipper.

$55, All supplies included.



February workshop ( date pending) Lace Bralette, it is both beautiful and functional. Some sewing experience required.

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What would you like to learn to make?

Happy new year!

Hilarie XOXO

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